I have had a Mitutoyo dial caliper for many yeas which is great quality has been extremely useful. 5 MITUTOYO ABSOLUTE DIGITAL CALIPER 6'.5 Mitutoyo Absolute Digital Caliper 6'Įxcellent product, first rate communication and service from Just Tools.Just Tools were helpful and delivery to Qld with tracking was great Much easier on the eyes and well worth the extra cost for quality. These are an excellent set of calipers to go with my old analog Mitutoyo imperial calipers. INC (incremental) measurement function: Enables the display value to be set to zero, temporarily, at the current slider position to enable easy incremental-mode measurement.The absolute origin position can be set, or reset, with the ORIGIN switch at any time.ABS (absolute) measurement function: Enables absolute-mode measurement to be started without any zero-setting after switch-on.This allows timely battery replacement before the caliper Low battery alarm: Indicates (with a 'B' symbol in the display) that the battery needs replacing.Power supply: Button-type silver oxide battery SR44.Font height: 9mm,alleviation of fatigue with the high-contrast LCD.The slider configuration features an ergonomic, thumb-friendly shape.A battery life of approximately 3.5 years has been achieved under normal use through the adoption of Mitutoyo's ABSOLUTE scale.The ZERO/ABS key allows the display to be Zero-Set at any slider position along the scale for incremental comparison measurements.

Comes in a hard case with battery included.No more repeated zero setting is necessary with this model.

Whenever turned on, the large LCD screen displays the actual slider position ready to start measurement.

It keeps track of origin point once set.

Mitutoyo's absolute Digimatic Caliper is the next generation of electronic calipers.

I always close the caliper and check it for zero before I do any measurement, just to be sure. To minimize the chances of this happening in the future, try to keep the caliper away from the worst dust in the shop, and clean the track as soon as you feel the head running roughly. Getting the adjustment right is a 'hunt and peck' process that may take several attempts, but with a little practice you will be able to reset the caliper in just a couple of minutes. If it isn't, just repeat the procedure until the pointer finally settles into the right engagement. Now close the jaws on the caliper and see if the pointer is at the twelve o'clock position. Move the head a fraction of an inch further to the left so that the gear will skip a few teeth and then pull out the strip, allowing the gear to settle back into the teeth on the rack. You won't be able to see this, but you'll feel the drag on the head as the gear runs into the strip. Now, if you move the head toward the strip, the gear on the head will ride up on the strip and will disengage from the rack. Now move the head of the caliper down to the middle of the bar and slip the strip in behind the head just over the rack with the bent tip down so it is against the gear teeth of the rack. Cut a 1/16' wide by 2' long strip out of the thin metal and put a slight downward bend in the strip about 1/4 inch back from one end. To do this you will need to make a small tool out of some shim stock or a soda can. Once the the head is moving smoothly, you may need to get the gear driving the pointer to intentionally skip some teeth on the rack to get the pointer vertical when the jaws are closed. After you clean the track, run the head back and forth gently, if there is still something in the teeth, you'll feel the head catch as it passes over the clogged section. It doesn't take a lot of debris in the track to cause trouble, so look close at the track under good light and use the tip of a needle if necessary, to clean out any clogged teeth the brush doesn't clear. A toothbrush, or a similarly sized fine brass brush, works well. To properly service the caliper, start by cleaning up the gear rack with a fine brush. Purely by luck, you got the gear to skip a few teeth again, in the proper direction, when you ran it back and forth, but this isn't a good way to reset the caliper and it won't prevent the problem from happening again. When you the gear that moves the pointer ran into the clogged teeth, it skipped a tooth or two and was thrown off. Behind the dial is a small gear, connected to the pointer, that runs in the rack. What happened is that you have some debris in the fine gear rack that runs down the middle of the bar.